(Other) Things to Do in Phnom Penh

I’d guess that most travelers passing through Southeast Asia give the capital of Cambodia two nights, max. They stop to visit the Killing Fields and S21 Prison and that’s it. But there are other things to do in Phnom Penh. Like lots of fun things. And yeah, maybe a lot of them involved drinks… but still.

I found PP to be a lively, colorful, affordable city, and not at all what I was expecting. Turns out there are tons of trendy restaurants, bars, and boutiques. Plus I experienced modern neighborhoods, riverfront views, markets, and tuk tuk drivers in quantities I’d never seen before! And that fierce competition means you can get basically anywhere in the city for two or three dollars.

My great experience was largely due to the tips I’d received before my arrival in the city.

While heading back to Kampot from Kep on the Crab Shuttle, I met a fun, newly-engaged Australian couple. The guy had lived in Phnom Penh for two years and after I expressed my reservations about visiting the capital, my nerves about the crime there, and worries about being ripped off, he adamantly suggested that I spend more time in the city than I thought I needed. Touting it as his favorite place in Southeast Asia, he told me the neighborhood I should stay in – near the Independence Monument – and even recommended a hostel and guesthouse. He also proceeded to give me advice on a few cool places to eat and drink, which I immediately jotted down in my phone, obvi.

Of course, I’d put in some research myself. Alex’s post on all of her awesome finds in Phnom Penh inspired me to stay longer and seek out the things that expats, not just tourists, would do here as well. That included finding a yoga class, checking out hip bars and restaurants, and browsing boutiques with locally-made items. Now that I had some ideas, I felt like I could really give the city a chance.

The Killing Fields & Tuol Sleng Prison

You do still have to do the obligatory educational tourist activities though. It’s like required reading for high school.* It’s your baseline for understanding the country and all that it’s been through.

In order to get a grasp of the atrocities that happened in Cambodia, the devastation caused by the Khmer Rouge, and huge scale of the genocide that occurred in its not-so-distant history, just go to these two heartbreaking places. The audio tours at the Killing Fields and S21 Prison are very well done and they use personal stories from victims to give you an idea of the absolute horror. It makes for a very heavy day, but it’s essential.

*Okay, if you really want to actually read something, then you must check out First They Killed My Father. It’s an eye-opening, horrific, and truthful depiction of one family’s experience throughout this terrible period in Cambodian history, and it is the only book that has actually given me nightmares.

Street 240

After absorbing all of that knowledge, it’s impossible not to be impressed by the array of boutiques on Street 240 that house garments handmade by the victims of landmines and jewelry made from melted-down bullets found all over the country. Lots of the proceeds go to victims’ organizations and the items’ manufacturing helps provide work for the disabled.

Of course at this point my carry-on sized bag was about as tightly packed as it gets, so I just barely resisted buying more clothes. It’s some seriously cool stuff.

And there’s tons of cafes, bookstores, and even spas around this colorful area. Dammit, just take my money!

You visit and try not to buy anything!

Yoga

There were a couple of spots to take yoga classes around my neighborhood in PP. However, just based on a combination of class schedules, prices, and walking distance to my hostel, I picked Nataraj Yoga Studio.

I paid $9 for an hour and a half Vinyasa flow class (yoga never seems to be cheap cheap). And though it was one of the more difficult yoga outings of my life, I left sweaty and feeling like I’d actually worked out hard at the gym. Based on my previous months of record eating and drinking in Southeast Asia, this was a good thing. It’s located down a residential street and while the facilities are basic, the classes are popular for a reason!

Food!

Being in a big city has its perks, not the least of which is the large selection of international foods. So while I took this time to finally sample Cambodian food, namely their curry-like amok, I also binged on affordable Indian food.

And I’m not sorry about it.

The Night Market

I can’t say no to markets in any form, especially food markets. So duh, I hopped onboard a visit to the Phnom Penh Night Market with some new hostel friends. In the front there’s shopping – where you can buy all the elephant-printed hippie pants your heart desires – and in the rear there’s food stalls and maybe some entertainment up on stage if you’re lucky.

At each of the stalls, you can grab a plastic basket and fill it with the things you want grilled or wok-fried up. I tried to avoid all of the fake crab and fish balls, and ended up with a meat and vegetable noodle dish after some grease-soaked spring rolls and wontons. You can then find a bamboo mat and sit on the ground to eat, accompanied by a local beer or fresh fruit smoothie of your choosing. It’s a solid way to spend an evening.

The Foreign Correspondents Club

I don’t care what anyone says, this is one of the coolest places to have a drink in the city. Maybe one of the coolest places I’ve ever had a drink in my life. And I went three times… because I’m so cool and all. Back in the day, it was a watering hole for foreign journalists and aid workers stationed in Phnom Penh. Located on the riverfront, it’s got those charming black and white tiled floors, open-air dining, and some great views.

Yeah, it’s a little expensive for Cambodia, but go to the FCC at happy hour and get yourself some nice cocktails at two-for-one prices and see the sunset. I also ordered steak tartare one night, because when it’s like $6, why would you not?! They have a huge menu of food and a fancy drink list so you can really treat yourself if you want.

Battbong Speakeasy

When I heard there were multiple speakeasy joints in the city, I was sold. This was a done deal. I was going.

When I heard there was one hidden behind an old Coca-Cola machine that doubled as a door, I knew which one I was going to frequent. (Yes, I went here twice.) It’s called Battbong, and this place is so much cooler than I’ll ever be.

Yes, the cocktails are around $6.5 a piece, but they have great stuff here. Even real bourbon, which is not the norm in Southeast Asia. They also have an impressive menu of interesting small plates, though I only had the feta and olives. (Turns out I should have selected something much more substantial for what turned out to be a big day of cocktail drinking.)

When All Else Fails, Rooftop Pools

I got this idea from a guy I met at the hostel. He just visits hotel pools when he doesn’t have anything better to do. Sometimes he just pretends like he’s a guest so he can sneak in – so scandalous!

I’m not that great with lying to authority on the spot, so I paid the $10 that Patio Hotel charges to use their fabulous rooftop pool for the day. And on a hungover afternoon (caused by only eating the aforementioned olives for dinner during a big night out), this was one of the best $10 I’ve ever spent.

You have sun loungers, towels, an infinity pool, and waiters from the bar downstairs at your disposal. It’s such a great value. Plus, you can’t beat the views of the city from up there.

So that’s how I wrapped up my week of eating, drinking, touristing, and wandering in Phnom Penh. Would you expect anything less? I’m so glad I gave this city a chance. Yes, it’s sometimes gritty and loud, but it feels real and surprisingly cool. The vibe is unlike any other place I’ve visited, and its food and drink scene is impressive. I’m definitely putting it on my list of must-visit-again cities.

Where I Stayed: Top Banana Guesthouse. Hostel in a great location with a rooftop bar and restaurant. Mad Monkey is also a popular choice for backpackers and located a few blocks away. Both have a bit of a party atmosphere, but the latter is definitely louder.

Where I Ate and Drank: Khmer Surin for Cambodian food, especially the fish amok. Reasonable prices and a beautiful atmosphere of wooden walls and lush greenery. Manaslu for Indian-Nepalese food has super friendly service and great curries (it’s next to Tastebudz, another popular Indian place). Great India is a tiny Indian restaurant around the corner from Top Banana that had an awesome $5 deal for naan, butter chicken, and an Angkor beer. Drinks at the FCC and Battbong are a must. For cheap drinks, check out the 50 cent draft beers by the riverfront located at some of the seedier looking restaurants on the main street between the FCC and the night market. They don’t make you wait until happy hour!

Seems Phnom Penh is a love it or hate it kind of place. Where do you fall?