How to Make Quito Not Suck

Now I know, I know… I’ve already shared how lots of backpackers talk shit about Bogotá and Santa Marta and other big cities in South America. Even Lima gets its fair share of the negative Nancys, but I thought it was amazing. And since I ended up having a great time in those places, I’ve learned to give every city the benefit of the doubt. But I have to say, Quito gets the worst of the shit talking by far.

So, based on my experiences, here’s how to make the most of your time there so that you don’t come away feeling the same as all of these other travelers just passing through!

I had to head to Ecuador’s capital twice. Once, for planning my Galapagos trip, which was hectic and terrible, and again because that’s where Charlie booked his flight in to visit me! I tried to hold off on doing any super fun or important stuff in Quito until he got there. In preparation for his visit, I asked some experts (aka people that have lived there) for ways to make this much poo-poo’ed city more fun. And ummm, I’ll admit it was kind of a challenge. My solution was mostly in the form of food. Shocked? I didn’t think so…

Take the Free Walking Tour of the Old Town. Charlie specifically asked that I hold off on this activity until he arrived. Fair enough, right? I previously stayed at Community Hostel (which I can highly recommend) and that’s where this walking tour started. Our two guides took us around the Old Town, past the Presidential Palace and main plazas, through La Ronda, and maybe the best part, it began with a visit to the huge central food market.

Market Eating. I really suggest this big central market, Coliseo Julio César Hidalgo, for a cheap lunch. Post-tour, our guide even went there with us to eat and gave us a few recommendations on the best dishes.

Charlie and I tried the horneado, roast pork with fried potatoes and salad, and the encebollado, an onion and cilantro filled, hangover-curing fish soup accompanied by toppings of salsa, lime, hot sauce, and popcorn. Each plate cost $3 or less, and we were able to snag a couple of beers from the beverage lady while we ate with new friends from our tour group.

Getting a $1.50 Manicure. The light blue nail polish in these photos is the result of one very cheap manicure I decided to get on a whim during my first visit to Quito. The lady that did my nails was a super friendly Colombian who had recently moved to the city, and so we both commiserated about missing her home country (I’d just arrived to Ecuador and was already thinking about heading back north across the border to my new favorite place). I showed her my photos from Medellín and she laughed at my Spanish while we chatted. A win-win as far as cultural experiences go. Also, I couldn’t believe that even in the touristy historic center – the pedestrian street of Calle Chile, to be specific – prices were this cheap.

Zao. Before Charlie arrived, I checked into our hostel in the north of the city, napped hard following my overnight bus ride from Guayaquil, and then roamed around in search of a late lunch. I hadn’t had sushi in forever, and Zao advertised a set lunch menu for $14.90, which by Ecuadorian standards is pretty pricey. But for that price, I received 4 courses, wine, and espresso. I couldn’t have been more excited by the dumplings, sesame noodles, sushi, and a brownie that I ordered, as well as the accompanying beverages… even if it did mean having a solo wine lunch.

Hay Pan. This place came recommended by my friend who’d lived in Quito for a year, and man, it’s probably the best discovery I made (thanks, Cate!). I went here three times in two days. The breads and pastries are incredibly fresh and light. I tried their bacon and cheese croissant, cinnamon bun, chocolate croissant, and apple pastry during my visits. It’s a modern little outdoor shop that would be easy to miss if you didn’t know where it was, but I could eat at this place every day of my life.

Urko. The affluent new neighborhood around Av. Gonzalez Suarez where we were staying had tons of upscale dining options and a very contemporary vibe. I felt super safe staying here and we even walked to dinner in the dark, something I’d been avoiding in Quito thus far. I knew I was going to have one fancy meal while Charlie visited and after some Internet research, we decided on Urko, the new restaurant with the “innovative young chef.” Though there wasn’t a tasting menu on the night we visited, the kitchen provided plenty of (free!) bites to try before we kicked off our meal, including duck beignets, an endive salad, and steak tartare (hooray!).

While the other dishes we ordered were a bit hit or miss, there was no denying this place was super interesting and cool. We had fishbowl-esque gin drinks infused with crazy flavors and some great ceviche. My camera wasn’t allowed on this excursion, you know, as I was trying to enjoy the moment and whatnot.

We stayed at Boutiquito, a unique, trendy little hostel perched on the edge of the La Paz and  Guapalo neighborhoods. Charlie and I got a private room here, and I’d highly recommend it for its location. You could easily day trip it to the Old Town and come back for a fun, safe evening in the nearby restaurant and bar scene.

Jervis Cafe in La Floresta came recommended by multiple folks and it did not disappoint. A scenic walk from our hostel, we found this tiny restaurant, with its chalkboard menu and cool, minimalist decor, filled with customers. We had excellent breakfast sandwiches and bagels and fancy coffee drinks before finally fleeing the city for Mindo. It’s in the center the hip, young, international neighborhood of La Floresta.

Other tips for enjoying the city:

Learn to take the red Ecovía bus for 25 cents. Seriously, it’s super easy and runs in a straight line. I avoided it at first because it the idea of public buses sketched me out, but I ended up walking my ass off as a result. You can take the bus from the Old Town all the way south to the Quitumbe bus station if you’re heading out of town, or north to several parks, Mariscal, or other neighborhoods (hint, hint: stop Orellana for Boutiquito).

After you’ve visited the Old Town, head to a nicer, more modern neighborhood where you feel safe, like La Floresta, La Paz, or Guapalo (the bohemian neighborhood). The nice apartment buildings, great restaurants, clean sidewalks, and beautiful landscaping made me feel a lot more secure about walking around solo or with Charlie at night. There are way fewer tourists and much better food. It’s a whole different side of the city

I actually think that’s why a lot of folks don’t like Quito. They either stay in the historic district where they’re warned not to walk around at night or they stay in Mariscal, the commercial and nightlife district which is neither impressive nor pretty. And I’ll admit, because everyone feels the need to comment on Quito’s crime, I got a bit paranoid and it deterred me from roaming around too much on my own at first. To be fair though, I ended up taking a combination of taxis, public buses, and my own feet for miles around the city and nothing even remotely sketchy happened. Just be prudent and aware of yourself, guys.

The Verdict:  While I still didn’t love, love, love Quito, I will say that relocating from the Old Town to Guapalo really improved my outlook on the city and helped me appreciate its modern side. Though I didn’t feel drawn to it in the way that I was to that other big, high altitude South American capital city of Bogotá, I enjoyed my time there much more than I’d expected.

The restaurant variety I discovered and the food recommendations I received played a big part in shaping my opinion of Quito, and I wish I could have tried even more of what those contemporary neighborhoods had to offer! And even though it still wasn’t my favorite, I’m glad I was at least able to get over the city’s overblown reputation for crime and other travelers’ negative views to see a progressive, beautiful (surprisingly culinary!) of Quito.

Where I Stayed: While solo, I stayed in the Old Town neighborhood at Community Hostel, which had amazing family dinners for $5 and almost gourmet breakfast for $3.50. They also had some of the most comfortable beds I slept in while traveling South America. With Charlie, we booked a private room in Boutiquito Design Hostel located near the more northern, safe, neighborhoods of Guapalo and La Paz.

Where to Eat in Quito: Get out of the Old Town and see my recommendations in the post above.

Have you been to Quito? Did you learn to love it?