Lonely Planet just named Zadar one of the Top Cities to Visit in 2019. And I was going to do this post anyway… not because I have a ton left to say after this epic 3,000-word blog post detailing most everything you need to know about visiting Zadar. But because I was finally having a blogging moment and itching to hit post the other week… only to find I didn’t have my camera, which contained most of my Zadar photos.
(So I opted for mostly iPhone photos in my last blog post because published is better than perfect, right?)
These are my final travel tips for Zadar, particularly tips on things to do outside the Old Town. (There’s plenty all over the Internet about things to do inside the Old Town.) But because every travel article needs some nuance, I’ve included a little bit about the best and worst aspects of our five weeks there. I’ve also included several questions that I had before traveling to Zadar and their answers.
To be honest though, there isn’t much that’s the “worst” about living in Croatia during the summer…
Read More: Living in Zadar, Croatia: The Old Town, Restaurants, Beaches, and World Cup!
Should you stay in Old Town Zadar or Outside?
If you’re there for a short time, I’d recommend somewhere inside the Old Town or just outside the city walls. There are some great (cheaper) local spots that you’ll find if you go for a stroll outside the Old Town. Our second Airbnb was a 12-minute walk from the city walls and it gave us a chance to see views of the city and harbor from beyond. And well, it gave us an opportunity to exercise… ya know, since we usually walked to the bars in the Old Town to watch the World Cup and all…
If you’re not on AirBnb, get on it. Get $40 Off!
The Best Things About Staying in the Old Town:
Old Town Zadar is ancient and lovely and you can wander among Roman ruins while you drink huge, cheap beers, eat gelato, and grab slices of pizza and flaky burek on the reg. Shopping at the local market is an experience in itself. Most nice restaurants are located here, as well as tons of open-air cafes and sites like Sea Organ and Salutation to the Sun, which are always busy at sunset. Also, you can climb the Bell Tower and visit the Sea Glass Museum, which sounded really cool, but we didn’t get around to it.
You really can’t beat having a cold beer while you stare at Roman ruins and watch hundreds of birds fly around the lit-up Bell Tower as the sun goes down.
this place is always hoppin’ at sunset
if you’re “living” here, however, you may find yourself dodging crowds a lot just to go grocery shopping
The Worst Parts About Staying in the Old Town:
It can get crowded.
The Old Town’s restaurants are pricey, hit or miss in quality, and well, you might end up in an Airbnb like our first apartment with no windows to the outside world, no AC, and mosquitos that fly inside and bite you whenever you close your eyes. (Or you might have a boyfriend who “requires” the only fan and table while he works, leaving you to sweat it out on the futon with your laptop. It could happen to you!)
Or maybe just do your research first, and you’ll be fine. Honestly, it’s awesome to wake up in the middle of the Old Town every day. Especially if you’re on vacation.
I hear you though, it can feel a little curated at times. A little too perfect. Outside of the Old Town’s walls, it starts looking like a real Balkan city, equal parts crumbling concrete and bright, colorful Adriatic beauty. And I loved it there too…
on the way out…
nope, not our house, unfortunately!
Where Are the Best Beaches?
Ahhh, one of the first things I googled. So I tried not to get my hopes up since I’d been to Croatia before and I knew that although they are beautiful, most of the beaches here are rocky. And we were planning to stay on the mainland in a port town, rather than one of the smaller islands. Typically, you’re also not going to find a pristine beach right in the middle of a city (unless it’s Barcelona, okay). Most websites were telling me that the best beach spots were a boat ride away (which is true – read about Sakarun here). Nevertheless, she persisted…
The Best Things About Zadar’s Beaches:
Don’t let ’em lie to you. There are good beaches to be found around Zadar. They do the job, anyway.
Some of them even have tiny pebbles where you can get semi-comfortable on your towel. The sea is a super clear and blue-green in color, and that’s really all you could ask for. You can BYOB or order drinks from a nearby cafe-bar… and they may even have chairs for you to rent. The best beaches within walking distance of the Old Town are Karma Beach and Kolovare Beach. If you fancy a long walk or an Uber ride, check out Borik Beach.
If you’d prefer to feel a bit like a local, we really liked the community feel of Bazen Kolovare, a public beach club of sorts. They’ve got beers, TVs, pool, a diving platform, sports, a ton of kids and families, lots of locals hanging out, and general good times. You can BYO food.
The Worst Things About Zadar’s Beaches:
If you’re really into soft, sandy white beaches, you’re out of luck. I hear you – I considered buying water shoes like the locals after hobbling around on rocks as I waded into the water each time.
If you don’t want to walk too far and you give no f’s, just drop your towel anywhere along the edges of the Old Town. It makes me nervous to jump into water when I don’t know how deep it is (as it should), but just follow the drunk Spanish guys who bring they own pizza and cans of beer to the Sea Organ and you should be fine… Seriously, people swim anywhere.
a picturesque street near our apartment, en route to the sea, which you are never far away from!
What is there to do outside the city walls?
Explore! I wandered around in new directions every day. There are so many cool nooks, side streets, and neighborhoods around town. And don’t forget about all the little marinas and docks with boats and tiny beaches!
When choosing a neighborhood while traveling, I have a theory: If you pick a more local or outlying spot, you’ll see more of a city. That’s because you’re always going to make the effort to see the tourist sites, the city center, the places people told you to go. You’re not going to always wander outside the center or through the residential areas. And when you stay in those more local spots, you have to explore more. It’s a good way to get slightly off the tourist trail.
(Caveat: If you only have a couple of days, prime location might still be the number-one criteria that dictates where you stay. You don’t want to spend a lot of time in transit. But if it’s easily walkable, my theory still applies.)
The Best Things About Staying Outside the Old Town:
You’ll see so much more! So many cool homes. Whether decrepit, ornate, or art deco, they are just beautiful. You’ll find lots of photo ops surrounded by brightly colored flowers and crumbling buildings. Look for cool local spots. I really loved this market where the butcher (who didn’t speak much English except for “grill” and “steak”) would cut me whatever I wanted. There was also THE best bakery next door for greasy delicious burek and cream-filled croissants. (I found it on Google Maps and wandered there. It’s worth the walk.)
FYI, some important Croatian language knowledge: Pekarna is bakery. Mesnica is butcher. Most words I learned besides “hello,” “thank you,” and “cheers” involve food.
Another cool think about the outskirts that’s similar to the Old Town: You can also hop in the water anywhere. The cafes along the water are perfect for sunrise or sunset, an espresso or a beer, or a casual dip after you finish your afternoon run. There are little pebbly beaches, grassy areas, or just plain concrete ramps where you can get yourself into that saltwater.
The Worst Things About Staying Outside the Old Town:
Um, not much. Since there aren’t a ton of major tourist attractions in the Old Town, it won’t kill you to walk 10 minutes into town if you’re able. The restaurants might have a little less ambiance, but they make up for that with their prices!
Just don’t situate yourself too, too far away from the Old Town. We almost made our mistake with our second Airbnb but then decided against it. If you’re farther out, you’re less likely to walk into town on a whim. Although there are Ubers if you don’t feel like walking occasionally…
Are there any other bad things about staying outside the Old Town? It’s not quite as picturesque, things are farther apart, and, I mean, I guess the mall isn’t anything to write home about. (But who’s shopping on their Croatian vacay? Really, I’m grasping at straws here, guys.) Even if you do go to explore and exercise around the mall – I headed that way on my runs – you may find out that your knees just can’t take running up the stairs like Rocky. This is 30.
Why isn’t there more street food in Zadar?
Ahhh, I don’t know! You read my mind!
With all the seafood, fresh produce, cevapi around Zadar, I don’t know why the only thing you see regularly is corn! (I’m not counting pizza and ice cream.) And there are only a few corn stalls surrounding the Old Town at that. Okay, once I saw a tent by the water serving bread bowls filled with tiny fried fish. And there was a temporary Italian street market where I accidentally spent about $9 on a jar of giant capers. But other than that, I got nothin’! Zadar, let’s make this happen?
How easy is it to take day trips from Zadar?
Pretty easy. Just don’t spend as much time as I did researching on the Internet. Google Maps is all you need!
You can book tickets to nearby islands along the Dalmatian Coast using the Jadrolinija office by the city walls. There are tons of villages, beaches, and islands to explore in the vicinity, like Dugi Otek where you’ll find the incredible Sakarun Beach. And that’s if you want to DIY it for cheap. If you feel like having someone pick you up, drop you off, show you around, and pack your lunch, there are a million stands selling tourist packages and lots of boats in the harbor. Impossible to miss.
Even if you do choose the cheap option, you’ll get great views as you cruise around the islands. Since our particular ferry broke down, we got to experience the closed and open-air versions that Jadrolinija offers…
You can also rent a scooter for the day! (They’re about $40.) Marko and I hopped on a bike and traveled to the town of Tisno to see his friends who were there for a music festival. Sure, it was a little bit farther than I typically like to go sitting on the back of a motorbike, but it was doable in a day. There are also the nearby small towns of Bibinje and Diklo, and a bit farther north is the village of Petrčane, which is supposed to be beautiful. One of my biggest pieces of advice is to get out of Old Town Zadar and explore!
For More “Bests” of Zadar: Living in Zadar, Croatia: The Old Town, Beaches, and World Cup!
Good travel essay. Tips are helpful too. I love to read travel story. Here with the story I have enjoyed beautiful images and tips too. Thanks for a great share.
wow the photos are awesome i do have a thing for old towns and the way they seem to take you back in time. Love it.