Man, I Love Cartagena! More Photos and Raving

I know, I know. You’re probably like, Rachel, you’re not even in Cartagena anymore right? Haven’t you moved on?

No, the answer is no. I haven’t moved on. I’m hung up on how beautiful and fantastic and warm and welcoming Cartagena was to me. Maybe it’s such a bright shining star in my mind because it was the first stop on my trip, maybe because I made some fun friends there, or maybe just because it’s so ridiculously good looking. Whatever, I’m still in love. Can’t get over it. Won’t get over it.

In fact, I’m going to drag my boyfriend and family back as soon as I can.

Plus, ya know, I had a lot of great photos left of Cartagena that I wanted to show off. Between some solo wandering and a free walking tour, I saw almost all of the walled city (and much of Getsemani too). And I wouldn’t have hesitated to stay longer than five nights. I don’t care if it’s touristy, I liked it. Colombia is really putting its best foot forward with Cartagena.

Anyway, here we go. Photos and ravings to commence now (along with a few travel tips and anecdotes too).

I love Cartagena so much because…

The colors! The way people paint their houses like they give zero f*cks. I just want my future home to look like this! Is that so much to ask? The bright colors and the glorious flowers and the huge windows…

The fresh fruit on literally EVERY corner. Ripe and delicious and local.

I hung out with three different Latin American women traveling in Cartagena and each of them took me along to buy fresh fruit for snacks, whether from a cart on the street or the grocery store, and that struck me as odd. In the US I almost never see people (or myself or my friends) actively seeking out fruit for a snack! How healthy! I guess it really shouldn’t be that weird.

Because you can’t walk a block down the street without pulling out your camera. Is this real life? It’s like a fairy tale. God, that sounds so lame, but really. It’s like every scene gets better than the last and you’re afraid to miss capturing something. This town is so picturesque.

“No place in life is sadder than an empty bed”

I guess that’s where ol’ Gabriel García Márquez got his inspiration for all that magical realism. That’s his house in orange on the left.

I’m currently reading his Love in the Time of Cholera (no, not in Spanish – I’m not a sadist) and surprisingly, I’m really enjoying it. A little wordy, but the story is intriguing.

The food! Cartagena has some surprisingly great street food and tons of restaurants everywhere (and not of the shitty tourist variety either). Look for the cheap menús del día at lunch.

And because Anthony Bourdain visited that lovely looking restaurant on the left, I did too. Happily, it wasn’t overrated. La Cevicheria was all it’s cracked up to be.

Go at lunch to avoid the crowds (it opens at 1:00) and order something to split if you want to be cheap about it. This was more than enough ceviche for my Brazilian cohort and myself. We got the combinado with fish, shrimp, squid, and octopus. Plus, it’s served alongside plantain chips and mango salsa!

Because the free walking tour was really engaging. We roamed the walled city and learned a lot about the history of Cartagena and Colombia itself. Did you know that it’s named for Christopher Columbus even though he never came here?

I especially enjoyed hearing an insider’s opinion on how far Colombia has come in the past twenty years. It was a really honest and heartfelt ending to our tour from somebody who actually lived through all the cartel violence.

Speaking of, the history! This city was built in the 1500s and still contains so much evidence of that. You can even see the remaining facade of the Spanish Inquisition.

And because you can still actually go to services at a church that looks like this (you know, if you wanted to do that during your visit). Things aren’t treated like relics – people just live amongst them, with them… and in them.

Because of this lady right here with the recarga sign (and many others like her on every corner) who can put more credit on your phone when you run out. Who needs a cell phone plan?

Because if you can’t buy it on the street here, you don’t need it! (Still a little angry with myself for not finding the perfect hat. All in good time…)

Because you can ride a horse-drawn carriage should your heart desire. It’s like the Charleston, South Carolina of South America.

On the phone with Charlie, he said, “It sounds like there’s animals out there.” I just responded, “Um, yeah, Charlie. This is only the most romantic city on the planet!!!”

God…

I’ll just let this photo speak for itself.

Okay, no I won’t.

Arepas at every turn! If you see an arepa cart with Taz on it (yes, the cartoon Tasmanian devil), GET THOSE AREPAS! It was my first arepa ever and it has led to a love affair with those corn treats. Get all salsa rosada and salsa de ajo on top for me!

Because people are always doing SOMETHING in the street! Seriously, this guy with the bubbles…

Because the city is surrounded by a wall that is hundreds of years old. I wish my city had a wall. You can walk on top of it all around the city and watch the sunset from the wall and drink beers.

Don’t go to the overpriced Café del Mar for drinks at sunset. Well do go. Go right up to it and then buy drinks for a dollar or two from the guys selling beers just outside the restaurant. Literally right outside. Capitalism. I love it.

Do not get drunk and keep walking around the wall. El muro gets pretty narrow in some places and there are no handrails (What do you think this is? ADA-compliant America? No, it’s a super old wall built long ago by slaves). I didn’t like doing it sober.

Because balconies. They really put my Raleigh apartment balcony to shame. Now if only somebody would let me onto one of these…

And so many intricate door knockers that were used to display the occupation of the home’s inhabitants. From fishermen to government workers, you could tell by looking at these. For example, a lizard would signify royal inhabitants.

Because if it’s good enough for the fourth richest man in Colombia, it’s good enough for me. That’s his house there, covered in flowers. Our tour guide told us not to come to Cartagena to buy a home in the old city with less than one million dollars. I was pretty devastated by that.

Because limonadas.

Gosh this stuff is so good. They squeeze a fresh lime (or are they lemons or oranges? Everything is called limón here!) in your cup followed with some of the iced down juice they’ve already got chilling in these clear plastic cubes. A small cup will set you back 1,000 pesos (about 35 cents).

Just because that sign on this cute, ridiculously decorated Argentine restaurant says, “We don’t have wi-fi, talk amongst yourselves.”

Because this blue will potentially be the future color of my house. Is there some unwritten rule that all of our houses in America have to be white, beige, or brick? Because these are fantastic.

I’d also love a large, ornate wooden door where I can leave fresh exotic flowers, of course. Just because.

And because it’s an UNESCO World Heritage site, that means that Cartagena has to keep its buildings maintained in an authentic, historically accurate way, so no high rises for the walled city! Thank god.

Just a few tourists with cameras. And I’m okay with that. Keeps it clean and looking pretty!

For all you know, I’m secretly holed up here and not actually traveling around Colombia…

Just kidding, I had to get out of that heat. That’s possible this city’s only flaw. Hey, it can’t help that the Spanish built it right on the Caribbean.

But just go already! If you hate it, you can punch me in the face. That’s a personal invitation.

Where I Stayed:  El Viajero Hostel – I’m so glad I picked this place. The location is perfect and within the city center (preferable to the Getsemaní neighborhood for females traveling solo, in my opinion). There are lots of showers and the wifi is strong. The bar sells cheap beers ($3,000 – $3,500 COP each, or $1.00 – $1.20 USD) and it’s very social – I met lots of good people here. The hostel arranges nightly activities like barbeques, salsa lessons, and game nights. They’ll also help you plan excursions to Playa Blanca or the mud volcano. I stayed in an 8 bed female dorm for about $40,300 COP, or $14 USD per night.

What do you think? Is Cartagena too perfect for you to love?