OMG, I’m just so far behind on writing about my time in Vietnam. Sorry everyone, travel has just been too much fun lately!
Ninh Binh, Vietnam was not on my radar. But when you pay for the whole open bus ticket, you get ALL the stops! And as it’s only three hours outside of Hanoi, it’s an easy first stop. But what is there to do in Ninh Binh you ask? I didn’t know beforehand either. Lots of nature-y things? Bicycle riding? Quick Google image search. Sure, sign me up!
Several of our Halong Bay group decided to visit the area, and together we got off the bus in Ninh Binh at around 9 PM, in the dark, on the side of the road. Yep, we were the only ones that got off. Bags on the sidewalk, we just looked at each other. But before we could even make a plan or decide where to walk, we were approached by a Vietnamese man with a flashlight who asked if we needed a place to stay.
OKAY, now normally in Southeast Asia, when somebody approaches YOU and offers to help, it’s generally a terrible idea to follow them anywhere. But in this case, we had the safety of our numbers and the (learned) ability to say no if something looks sketchy or just plain terrible.
There were eight of us, and he offered us an assortment of rooms for the price of $5 per person per night. Well mister, you’ve got the keys to my heart! He also had a restaurant, he gave great travel advice, and he rented bicycles. A one-stop shop for Ninh Binh really. No thinking necessary.
The next day, on the advice of our new friend, instead of heading to Tam Coc, the most touristed destination in the area, as planned, he told us that we should visit Trang An, because it was more beautiful, cheaper, and less busy. There are caves, karsts, and boat rides at both places. At Tam Coc, you’ve got more Western visitors, but at Trang An, you’ll find many Vietnamese tourists checking out their own country. We were sold.
The bike ride through the not-so-busy streets was lovely after a week in chaotic downtown Hanoi. As we approached Trang An, the limestone karsts rose out of nowhere and you had your pick of whole-roasted goats on the side of the road… you know, if you’re into that. It’s a Ninh Binh specialty.
In reference to the title of this post, I must explain a little bit about a movie that just happened to be filming in Vietnam at the time of our visit. My traveling companions had recently noticed that Samuel L. Jackson tweeted he was in Hanoi. Word on the street (um, the Internet) was that the sequel (or prequel, whatever) was being filmed in the nearby Vietnamese countryside, you know, for the epic landscapes.
So as we pedaled in the direction of Trang An, we came across huge white tents, the scent of catered food, big buses, and the dead giveaway: a tall, attractive, white guy with an earpiece in standing by the road. Just trust me on this when I say that in rural Vietnam, people like him stand out. We rode by, letting this spectacle sink in for about thirty seconds before we turned the fuck around. “Was that King Kong?! Do you think that’s King Kong? Is that the set?! Do you think they’ll let us in there?!”
Unfortunately, by the time we biked back to the entrance, we were met only with smugly serious Vietnamese security guards who waved us off. Eventually, after we asked “King Kong? King Kong?” multiple times with huge grins on our faces, we got a smile and a nod from one of them… followed by an attempt to stop us from taking any photos, of course.
(I did immediately tweet at Samuel L though, just to let him know we were in the area and trying to hang out… in case he could get me in. No such luck.)
Despite not becoming extras in the new King Kong, we had a great time at Trang An and kinda became local celebrities anyway. (Ah, the irony.) Being the only Westerners, we were greeted EVERYWHERE (I cannot stress this enough) with “Hellllo!!!” and excited waves. It was flattering, hilarious, and almost tiring at times. And I also posed for a lot of pictures with people. Maybe being famous would be rough…
A visit to Trang An involves a long (about 3 hours) boat ride which is highly enjoyable. For 150,000 dong, your tiny boat is paddled down a river and through caves by a strong Vietnamese lady. Our lady handed us short paddles to row, but we never could figure out if she was joking with us. We tried our best to help her out, but none of the other tourists on any of the other boats seemed to be paddling. Could’ve just been one big joke on the Westerners.
We went through the caves, ducking, and letting our expert leader steer us through. We made a few stops to visit some temples hidden among the hills while she waited for us.
And best of all, we got to witness some really beautiful natural scenery… and so many couples taking their wedding photos on the river. You can’t really blame them; it would be a pretty baller place for some pics when you’re looking your best!
this couple lives in Texas. so friendly.
After that, half of our group (the French guys) headed to a pagoda nearby for the afternoon and to look for a good sunset spot. What did the rest of our group do? Um, eat. Duh.
After some roadside beers and an unremarkable pho (we weren’t ready for the goat), we headed back into town. And okay okay, there’s not really much to do IN the city of Ninh Binh, but among the things we did find were the following:
Sampled some fried “doughnuts” which we followed our nose to find. Some of them were in fact sweet. Some of them contained onions and a whole quail egg. Surprise!
Wandered through the town’s market. Saw fresh produce, tons of meat and live seafood, chickens in crates, and um… dog meat. This was the first and only time I saw dog meat (and recognized it as such) in Vietnam. I had a truly difficult ethical dilemma in deciding whether or not I should post the photo of a chopped up dog, and I have decided against it, because PETA or some crazy dog lover will publicly shame me. (But I didn’t buy it or eat it okay?!) I’ll admit that even though it’s totally a cultural thing for them, it freaked me out a little more than I thought it would. If you really wanna see it, send me an email. I might be willing to share.
Said “Helllllo!” to all the little kids in town.
Roamed Ninh Binh to find an ATM. Harder than it seems.
Played cards and drank cheap Bia Hanoi by the lake.
Shared multiple dishes of food at the old man’s restaurant.
Boarded the night bus outta there.
(The French guys stayed an extra day to rent motorbikes and explore the countryside a little more. So it is possible to spend longer in Ninh Binh, should your heart desire.)
This stop was definitely worth a visit as it was a little off the beaten path. If you’re not motorbiking up or down Vietnam (because you’re scared to die), then only having a one month visa and the stops listed on your open bus ticket makes it more difficult to get to the smaller towns, villages, and authentic portions of Vietnam. But that stop in Ninh Binh will give you a little taste of it. Do it!
Where we stayed: Xuan Hoa Hotel, conveniently located about a block from the open bus stop. If a tall, thin older man approaches you at the bus stop, don’t be afraid to follow him. He’s legit. And an entrepreneur (I cannot believe this place has a website!) We shared a three bed room at $5 per person, and even had towels and TV. Address: 31D – Minh Khai. The food at his restaurant is good too. And the beers are cheap. (I paid something like $13 USD for the room, bicycle, a few big beers, and dinner.)
Practical tips: Ninh Binh might be easier to do in a group. Splitting hotel rooms (I don’t know of any hostels there) and having people to share your boat ride with definitely make it more fun. Rent a bike – most things are relatively nearby! And if you’re like me, you need the exercise.
Cool sing me up to your blog!